The Skeptical Diner: El Meson
About 18 months ago, I dined at El Meson (on Lyndale and 35th, or thereabouts) for the first time. It was impressive: here was a place a stone’s throw from home where I could get a variety of really tasty tapas for a relatively fair price. And I mean Spanish-style tapas, not the Ragu-tainted oddly Italian offerings that dominate La Bodega. Naturally, there are La Bodega partisans out there, and you’re entitled to your opinion. But unless the menu’s changed radically in the last year, I can tell you that what you’re eating is a cross-eyed cousin to actual Spanish-style food.
At any rate, that said: in subsequent visits, El Meson went downhill in hurry. Consistency went out the window — plating and even cooking styles changed from visit-to-visit, often for the worse. Seafood clocked in half-heartedly, which is not something you ever want seafood to do. But now that Cafe Ena has opened, it seemed like a good time to revisit El Meson, and the news is good.
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